yf 


rm «' * 

. Bg ; 

lfe, %ACTICAL directions 


TK 7019 
. B8 
1892 
Copy 1 


FOR 1 * 


ELECTRIC 

u«s Lighting and Bell Fitting 




.•rM. 




AMATEURS. 


By EDWARD T REVERT. 


IDDTJSXRAXEED. 


PRICE, 25 CENTS. 


1892 : 

BUBIER PUBLISHING COMPANY, 
Lynn, Mass. 


* 










PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS 


ELECTRIC 


Gas Lighting and Bell Fitting 


AMATEURS. 


■■ , 
Jr 


By EDWARD TREVERT. 

1 






IIvLU STRATED. 


Eff't 

Es~/J X 


1892 : 


BUBIER PUBLISHING COMPANY, 
Lynn, Mass. 







- 'y&k/7 

COPYRIGHTED BY 

BUBIER PUBLISHING COMPANY, 

1 8 9 2 . 




0 - 





PRESS OF G. H. & W. A. NICHOLS, LYNN, MASS. 



PREFACE. 


This little book was issued on account of a call for a small 
low-priced work upon this subject. It is not designed for 
the expert bell-fitter, but for the amateur, who wishes to 
put up his own bells and fix his own gas lighting apparatus. 
Hoping that it may fulfill its mission is the wish of the 
author, 

EDWARD TREVERT. 


Lynn, Mass., September 15, 1892. 













- 





















































































































CONTENTS 


CHAPTER I. 

PAGES 

Electric Batteries,.7—19 

CHAPTER IT 

Electric Bell-Fitting,. 20 —34 

CHAPTER III. 


Electric Gas-Lighting, 


35 — 5 ° 

















Is 
















‘ 



































































































PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS FOR 



FOR AMATEURS. 


CHAPTER I. 

ELECTRIC BATTERIES. 

Voltaic Cell .—The simplest electric battery 
made is the Voltaic Cell. This is made by placing 
in a glass jar some water having a little sulphuric 
acid or any other oxidizing acid added to it. Then 
place in it separately two clean strips, one of zinc 
Z, and one of copper C. This cell is capable of 
supplying a continuous flow of electricity through 
a wire whose ends are brought into connection 
with the two strips. When the current flows the 
zinc strip is observed to waste away ; its consump¬ 
tion, in fact, furnishes the energy required to 
drive the current through the cell and the connect- 



8 


ELECTRIC GAS-LIGHTING AND 


ing wire. The cell may, therefore, be regarded as 
a sort of chemical furnace in which the fuel is 
zinc. Before the strips are connected by a wire 
no appreciable difference of potential between the 
copper and the zinc will be observed by an electro¬ 
meter ; because the electrometer only measures 



VOLTAIC CELL. 


the potential at a point in the air or oxidizing 
medium outside the zinc or the copper, not the 
potentials of the metals themselves. The zinc 
itself is at about 1.86 volts lower potential than 
the surrounding oxidizing media; while the cop¬ 
per is at only about .81 volts lower, having a less 
tendency to become oxidized. There is then a 









BELL-FITTING FOR AMATEURS* 


9 - 


latent difference of potential of about 1.05 volts 
between the copper and the zinc ; but this pro¬ 
duces no current as long as there is no metallic 
contact. If the strips are made to touch, or are 
joined by a pair of metal wires, immediately there 
is a rush of electricity through the metal from the 
copper to the zinc, and a small portion of the zinc 
is at the same time dissolved away; the zinc part¬ 
ing with its latent energy as its atoms combine 
with the acid. This energy is expended in forcing 
a discharge of electricity through the acid to the 
copper strip, and thence through the wire circuit 
back to the zinc strip. The copper strip, whence 
the current starts on its journey through the 
external circuit, is called the positive pole, and 
the zinc strip is called the negative pole. 

Electric batteries may be classified according to 
their use into open circuit and closed circuit 
batteries. An open circuit battery is a battery 
which is used when a current is needed for a few 
seconds at a time. If the circuit is kept closed 
too long the battery will become polarized, that 
is, hydrogen will collect on the carbon and prevent 
the current passing through the circuit. If, how- 


10 


ELECTRIC GAS-LIGHTING AND 


ever, the circuit is opened, the battery will recover 
itself in time. These batteries are designed for 
bells, telephones, gaslighters, etc. To this class 
belong the Leclanche, Samson and Law. 

Closed circuit batteries are used for continuous 
work, as for electric lighting, electro-plating, fire 
alarms, etc. To this class belong Grenet, Gravity, 
Gove, Bunsen and Fuller Batteries. 

The Leclanche Battery .—In this cell the exciting 
liquid is a solution of sal-ammoniac. In this the 
zinc dissolves, while ammonia, gas and hydrogen 
are liberated at the carbon pole. 

To prevent polarization in the disque form, the 
carbon plate is packed inside a porous cell with 
fragments of carbon and powdered binoxide of 
manganese, which slowly yields oxygen, and 
destroys the hydrogen bubbles. In the prism 
form the binoxide of manganese is applied in 
plaques or prisms, thus avoiding the necessity of 
using a porous cell. 

The Leclanche cell will give a continuous cur¬ 
rent only for a short time, the power falling off, 
owing to the accumulation of hydrogen bubbles; 
if the circuit is left open for a time the cell recov- 


BELL-FITTING FOB AMATEURS. 


11 


ers itself, the binoxide gradually destroying the 
polarization. The cell is in other respects per¬ 
fectly constant, very clean, and as it does not 
require renewing for months or years, when closed 
only for a few seconds at a time, it is well 



LECLANCHE CELL. 

adapted for working electric bells, annunciators, 
burglar alarms, and for other domestic purposes. 
This battery is set up in the following manner: 

Put six ounces of sal-ammoniac into the glass 
jar, fill one-third full of water, and stir. Put in 
the porous cell and fill with water to the neck of 









12 


ELECTRIC GAS-LIGHTING AND 


the jar, pouring a little water into the hole in the 
porous cup. Put in the zinc and connect the 
battery. 

The inside of the rim of the jar is paraffined, 
and should be kept greased to keep the salts from 
creeping. The battery should be kept in a dry 
place of medium temperature. It requires very 
little attention ; water should be poured in occa¬ 
sionally to supply the loss by evaporation. In 
case the solution becomes milky, and the battery 
fails to work, the solution should be thrown out 
and fresh sal-ammoniac and water put in. If this 
does not restore the battery, soak the porous cell 
in warm water. If it still fails, new porous cells 
must be used. 

Lazv Battery .—The jar is of flint glass, four arid 
a quarter inches square and seven inches high. 
The lid is of hard rubber composition and has 
three lugs on its flange, which engage with three 
on the inside of the mouth of the jar, thereby 
locking the lid hard down against a soft rubber 
washer. The negative element is a double cylin¬ 
der of pure carbon, weighing about twenty 
ounces and having a very large surface—about 


LAW BATTERY. 















































































































































































































































































































































































14 


ELECTRIC GAS-LIGHTING AND 


147 square inches. The positive element is a 
rolled rod of zinc; the excitant, 2^ pints of sal- 
ammoniac solution. A carbon button specially 
prepared is interposed between the negative ele¬ 
ment and its metal binding post to protect the 
latter from corrosion—a fruitful source of trouble 
in other batteries of this class. The very large 
quantity and surface of the negative element 
(being three or four times the usual quantity and 
surface in batteries of this class) and the large 
quantity of solution (about double that ordinarily 
used) give the battery a very low resistance and a 
very great holding up power under hard or exces¬ 
sive use. Its E. M. F. is about 1.5 volts, internal 
resistance, .5 of an ohm. 

The Samson Battery .—This battery in France, 
where first manufactured, is the leading open- 
circuit battery. This battery is not only pre¬ 
sented for its great efficiency in call bell, annun¬ 
ciator, burglar alarm and gas-lighting work, but 
it is also especially adapted to telephone service 
on account of its remarkable endurance and long 
life. The essential characteristics of the Samson 
Battery are its fluted carbon porous cup and cylin- 


BELL-FITTING FOR AMATEURS. 


15 


drical zinc. The former is imported direct from 
the Paris manufacturer in order to insure the per¬ 
fection of quality which he has reached by years 
of practical experiment. 

The carbon cup is corrugated, to present a 



SAMSON BATTERY. 

much larger surface to the action of the solution ; 
is porous to render the flow of the solution into 
the cup unresisted; is filled with a depolarizing 
material, to add to the battery durability and 
recuperative power. The zinc is of the best 
quality, well amalgamated, presents to the solu- 







































16 


ELECTRIC GAS-LIGHTING AND 


tion an unusually large surface, and nearly sur¬ 
rounds the carbon cup, thus reducing the internal 
resistance of the battery to almost nothing. 

The neck of the jar has a choke which supports 
a rubber cover, to prevent evaporation, closely 
fitting the corrugated carbon, which it holds 
safely apart from the zinc. In this cell the exciting 
liquid is a solution of sal-ammoniac. 

Gravity Batteries are two fluid cells. The one 
shown in the engraving is the Crowfoot Battery. 
Instead of employing a porous cell to keep the 
two liquids separate, it is possible, where one of 
the liquids is heavier than the other, to keep the 
latter on the bottom, and have the lighter floating 
upon it; this separation, however, is never per¬ 
fect, the heavy liquid slowly diffusing upward. 
To set up this battery proceed as follows : 

Open out the copper, so as to present all of- its 
surface to the action of the solution, place it in 
the bottom of the jar, run the insulated wire out 
of the top of the jar for connecting up. Suspend 
the zinc above the copper by hanging the hooked 
neck on the rim of the glass. Pour clean soft 
water into the jar until it covers the zinc, then 


BELL-FITTING FOR AMATEURS. 


17 


drop in six or eight ounces of copper sulphate 
(blue vitriol) in small crystals. 

Connect the battery (for ordinary purposes) 
zinc of one cell to copper of the next, and so on, 
and connect the two electrodes of the series and 
let them so remain for a few hours, until the sepa- 



CROWFOOT BATTERY. 


ration of the two solutions, which will be known 
by the blue observed in bottom of copper solution. 
This “blue line” should be maintained midway 
between the zinc and copper; when it is too low, 
drop in a few crystals of copper sulphate; when 
too high, connect the battery in short circuit as 
before described until it goes down. 

While the battery remains in action there is an 


18 


ELECTRIC GAS-LIGHTING AND 


increase in quantity of zinc sulphate solution in 
the upper part of the jar. When zinc oxide forms 
on the surfaces of the zinc, it must be taken out 
and washed in clean water with a brush. 



BURNLEY DRY BATTERY. 









































BELL-FITTING FOB AMATEURS. 


19 


Dry Batteries .—It is often necessary to arrange 
batteries so that they may stand considerable 
jarring, or even overturning, when a liquid would 
be spilled. Therefore came the invention of the 
dry battery. Of this type the Burnley Dry Bat¬ 
tery is one of the leading batteries of the present 
time. The battery shown in the cut is made by 
filling in the space between a hollow carbon cylin¬ 
der and a metal plate, which faces both external 
and internal surfaces of the cylinder, with the 
chemicals in a dry, or rather a pasty form. The 
whole is then sealed tight into the covering and is 
ready for use. Neither of the elements is con¬ 
sumed during action, but the chemicals are decom¬ 
posed. It is, therefore, free from the effects of 
polarization during the greater portion of its life, 
and can be restored again when exhausted by pass¬ 
ing a current from its positive to its negative pole, 
being thus, in a certain sense, a storage battery. 
Its E. M. F. is about two volts, and it will give a 
current of from 6 to io amperes, as internal resist¬ 
ance is very low. 


20 


ELECTRIC GAS-LIGHTING AND 


CHAPTER II. 

ELECTRIC BELL FITTING. 

Electric Bells .—The common form of electric 
bell or trembler consists of am electro-magnet, 
which moves a hammer backward and forward by 
alternately attracting and releasing it, so that it 
beats against a bell. The arrangements of the 
instrument are shown in the diagram, in which 
E is the electro-magnet and H the hammer. A 
battery, consisting of one or two Leclanche cells 
placed at some convenient point of the circuit, pro¬ 
vides a current when required. By touching the 
“push” P the circuit is completed, and a current 
flows along the line and round the coils of the 
electro-magnet, which forthwith attracts a small 
piece of soft iron attached to the lever, which 
terminates in the hammer H. The lever is itself 
included in the circuit, the current entering it 
above and quitting it at C by a contact-breaker, 
consisting of a spring tipped with platinum resting 





BELL-FITTING FOB AMATEURS. 


21 


against the platinum tip of a screw, from which a 
return wire passes back to the zinc pole of the 
battery. As soon as the lever is attracted for¬ 
ward, the circuit is broken at C by a spring mov¬ 
ing away from contact with the screw; hence the 






current stops, and the electro magnet ceases to 
attract the armature. The lever and hammer 
therefore fall back, again establishing contact at 
C, whereupon the hammer is once more attracted 
forward, and so on. The push P is shown in sec¬ 
tion on the right. It usually consists of a cylin- 




























































22 


ELECTRIC GAS-LIGHTING AND 


drical knob of ivory or porcelain, capable of moving 
loosely through a hole in a circular support of 
porcelain or wood, and which, when pressed, 



LUNGEN BELL. 


forces a platinum-tipped spring against a metal 
pin, and so makes electrical contact between the 
two parts of the interrupted circuit. 





BELL-FITTING FOR AMATEURS. 


23 


The Lungen Bell is entirely new in construc¬ 
tion. The base and cover are stamped, and having 
ribbed edges are strong, light and compact. 
Every piece is interchangeable, special machinery 
being used in its manufacture. 

The armature, hammer and its rod and adjust¬ 
ing springs are combined so that they cannot work 
loose. The adjusting screw is held firmly by 
spring nut and always remains as set. The base 
and metal parts are nickel-plated. The cover is 
made to spring on and requires no fastening, 
The hammer rod passes through the side of base, 
thereby filling opening, making it dust and insect 
proof. 

The Star Electro-Mechanical Gong .—The Star 
Gong is designed for use on railroads, in fire 
department stations, factories, engine rooms, 
school-houses, etc., where unerring alarms are 
requisite. The mechanism is simple, and its 
operation accurate. The release, controlled by 
the electro-magnet, is provided with an attach¬ 
ment which holds the hammer in position, except 
at the instant the current ceases, thus preventing 
more than one stroke for each pressure of the 


24 


ELECTRIC GAS-LIGHTING AND 



key. The hammer thus released falls into posi¬ 
tion for the blow, releases a stop lever, and sets 
in motion a spring mechanism geared to a five- 


STAR ELECTRO-MECHANICAL GONG. 

pointed star, one point of which forces the hammer 
to strike the blow. The hammer itself is faced 
with lignum vitae, to render the alarm more 











BELL-FITTING FOR AMATEURS. 


25 


agreeable to the ear. One winding of the spring 
(not clockwork) will serve 300 blows upon the 
gong. 

The magnets may be wound to any desired 
resistance to suit the requirements of any circuit. 
The large sized gongs are fitted to order for use 
on reversal circuits. Continuous ringing attach¬ 
ments are furnished with the gongs, when so 
ordered, without additional cost. The instrument 
is weather proof, provided with lightning arrester, 
and mounted in handsomely finished black walnut 
or ash cases, with plate glass fronts. 

The Victor Wooden Box Bell .—Its superiority 
consists in a soft iron bed-plate, to protect the 
adjustment from warping of the base-board; a 
double adjustment of the tension of spring as 
well as length of stroke; a novel and convenient 
clasping device for fastening the box to the base¬ 
board ; platinum contact points and gongs of 
superior tone. The magnets of the 2 ^ 4 , 3 and 
3^ inch bells are wound to three ohms resistance, 
and the gongs, binding posts, armature and ham¬ 
mer are all nickel plated. Finished in black 


26 


ELECTRIC GAS-LIGHTING AND 


walnut, plain and stained cherry, oak and ash 
boxes. 

The “ Victor Iron Back ” Bell is the same as the 
‘‘Victor,” except that the soft iron bed-plate is 
made to answer the purpose of a back as well, 
thus doing away altogether with the wooden base- 



VICTOR BELL. 


board. A finely finished wooden box is used, as 
with the “Victor” bell. 

The “ Climax ” Iron Box Bell is thoroughly 
well made with magnet and working parts en¬ 
tirely protected from dust, dampness, etc., by an 












BELL-FITTING FOR AMATEURS 


27 



i 













































28 


ELEOtRIC GAS-LIGHTING AND 


iron box ingeniously fastened to the iron base. It 
has a double adjustment, and rings easily on one 
cell of the Samson battery. For use in exposed 
places it has no equal. 

The “Boss” Electric Buzzer is designed for 
stores, offices, banks, etc., and is used to summon 
clerks or employes from their desks without 
attracting general attention to the call. The 
armature is pivoted to the base of an upright soft 
iron shield, from the top of which the magnet is 
firmly suspended. The armature, being pivoted 
to the shield, vibrates between the magnet and 
wooden base and is regulated by an adjusting 
screw underneath. It works free and easy on 
one cell of battery, occupies very little space, has 
binding posts on the outer edge of the base, is 
thoroughly constructed and attached to highly 
polished mahogany, black walnut, cherry or ash 
bases, while the mechanism is covered with a 
nickel-plated or polished brass shell. 

Improved Nickel-Plated Floor Push .—The push 
is removable and has a shoulder to prevent the 
insulated body being pushed out in case it is 


BELL-FITTING FOR AMATEURS 


29 



FLOOR PUSH. 



DOOR PULL ATTACHMENT. 


i 




* 























30 


ELECTRIC GAS-LIGHTING AND 



Figure i. 



Figure 2. 










































































BELL-FITTING FOR AMATEURS. 


31 


stepped on. There is a hole clear through the 
body of the push, thus providing an escape for 
dust. 

Door Bell Pull Attachments .—Designed for con¬ 
necting a mechanical door pull to ring an electric 
bell. It can be attached without displacing the 



bell-pull already in use, and may be arranged to 
operate both the mechanical and electrical bells. 

Fig. i shows the arrangement of a single 
battery supplying several bells, operated sepa¬ 
rately by different buttons, the bells being con¬ 
nected in multiple. 

Fig. 2 represents a battery B, acting on a bell 
operated by three different buttons, i, 2, 3. 










32 


ELECTRIC GAS-LIGHTING AND 




Figure 5. 















































BELL-FITTING FOB AMATEURS. 


33 


® u u 


-o 

Figure 6. 



Figure 7. 
























































34 


ELECTRIC GAS-LIGIITING AND 


Fig. 3 shows three bells in multiple actuated 
by one button. 

Fig. 4 shows three bells in series. 

Fig. 5 shows bell with return circuit through 
earth. In this case only one wire is necessary. 
The ground can be made by connecting one wire 
at each end of the circuit to a gas pipe and water 
pipe, if they have good ground connections. 

Fig. 6 shows three bells and four batteries 
connected in series. 

Fig. 7 shows bell and battery connected in 
multiple. 


BELT-FITTING FOR AMATEURS. 


35 


CHAPTER III. 

ELECTRIC GAS LIGHTING. 

The battery to be used is some form of open 
circuit, preferably the Samson or Leclanche 
Disque. Place the battery, consisting of four or 
six cells, according to size of the house or number 
of burners to be used, in the cellar or lower hall¬ 
way, taking care to select a place of uniformly 
cool temperature. The place selected should not 
be too dty, for a dry atmosphere tends to evapo¬ 
rate the fluids too rapidly ; nor very damp, as too 
much moisture interferes with the action of the 
battery. 

To Connect the Battery .—Connect the zinc 'of 
one cell with No. 16 or 18 wire to the nearest gas 
pipe on the house side of the gas meter. To 
make contact with the gas pipe perfect, file a 
bright surface on it and wind the bared copper 
wire around it several times. After the cells have 
been joined together, carbon of one to zinc of 


36 


ELECTRIC GAS-LIGHTING AND 


next, run a wire from the last carbon through the 
one-point switch, located near the battery, to the 
spark-coil; then from the spark-coil make connec¬ 
tion to the bunch of wires which lead to the 
various rooms of the house. 

To Detect a Ground .—Disconnect the battery 
wire from the bunch of wires in the cellar and 
touch each house wire with it separately. The 
grounded wire will be detected by a spark and 
should then be left out of the bunch of wires, 
which may now be connected with the battery 
wire again. The fixtures to which the grounded 
wire runs should be carefully examined, as the 
trouble is most likely to be in the fixture wiring or 
where the connection is made back of the wall 
plate. If, however, the trouble is between the 
fixture and the cellar, a new wire should be run. 
After the trouble is removed, connect the wire 
with the bunch of wires as before. 

For Automatic Burners , run wires from the 
cellar (where connection is made to battery wire) 
to the center brass strips on the rear of the key, 
or press-button plate. Run wires from the other 


BELL-FITTING FOR AMATEURS. 


37 


points of the press-button plate to the automatic 
burner, which is to be governed from that point, 
and connect the wire from the black press-button 
to the electro-magnet which shuts off, and the 
wire from the white press-button to that which 
turns on the gas. The circuit for lighting is made 
from battery, through switch, spark-coil, wire, 
brass, strip on press-button plate, by pressing the 
white button through the electro-magnet which 
turns on the gas; wir^at the tip of the burner (by 
the union and parting of these wires the igniting 
spark is made), thence to the gas pipe, and back to 
battery. For shutting off, the same circuit is 
made, except that by pressing the black button 
the circuit is closed through the other electro¬ 
magnet in the automatic, thus shutting off the 
gas. 

Improved Ratchet Automatic Burner. — This 
burner now has two platinum pointed brass pins, 
which are driven into the gas plug extension, and 
a brass base. A small rubber insulating block 
furnishes a foundation for the connection screws. 
Two flat springs of German silver attached to 
this block make connection with the brass pins in 


38 


ELECTRIC GAS-LIGHTING AND 


the gas plug extension, as the ratchet-wheel 
revolves. 

The current passes through but one coil of the 
magnet at a time, but energizes both poles. The 



IMPROVED AUTOMATIC RATCHET. 


two coils are energized alternately for lighting and 
extinguishing the gas. The simplicity of the 
improved burner is greatly in its favor, and the 
positive reliability of the contacts is an important 
advantage. The peculiar winding renders a com- 











BELL-FITTING FOR AMATEURS. 


39 


paratively weak current effective in its operation. 

To connect the same automatic with more than 
one key or press-button, run independent wires 
from the switch-board to each key and connect as 
before with the central brass strip. Run wires 
from each electro-magnet in the burner to the 
farthest key, and connect, as in a single key, the 
white button with the lighting, and the black with 
the shutting off wire. Run branch wires, to the 
other keys, making fast corinections ; the wires 
from the white button connecting with the wire 
already run from the white button of the farthest 
key, and the black with the other wire. 

To light more than one burner from the same 
press-button plate, select the key with buttons 
corresponding to the work required, two buttons 
for a single burner, four for two burners, six for 
three, etc. Run a wire from the battery to the 
press-button, and connect it with all the centre 
strips on the back of the plate. Run separate 
wires from the black and white press-buttons in 
the first set, and connect with burner No. i, as 
with a single automatic; run a separate wire from 
both press-buttons in the second set and connect 


40 


ELECTRIC GAS-LIGHTING AND 


in the same manner with burner No. 2; and in the 
same way with all the other sets. 

The Boston Ratchet Burner .—The first pull of 
the chain turns on the gas through a four-way [gas- 



BOSTON RATCHET BURNER. 

cock governed by a ratchet wheel and pawl. The 
issuing gas is lighted by a wipe-spark at the tip of 
the burner. Alternate pulls shut off the gas. 

The Thmnb-Cock Burner , here shown has an 
attachment upon the small end of the gas-cock, 










BELL-FITTING FOR AMATEURS. 


41 


located in the base of the burner, consisting of a 
vibrating arm with an elongated hole, tripping-pin 
and cam. By the opening movement of the gas- 
cock the vibrating arm, with its elastic contact 
point, is forced against and past the fixed elec¬ 
trode, tripped and returned by means of the 
retractile spring, leaving the gas turned on and 



THUMB-COCK BURNER. 


lighted,—a quarter turn of the thumb-cock back¬ 
ward extinguishes the gas. The operation is 
such that short-circuiting at the electrodes is 
next to impossible. 

To Put up the Hand-Lighter .—Run a single 
wire from the battery as with the Automatic, and 
connect it with the binding screw on the insulated 
collar at the tip of the burner. The movement of 


42 


ELECTRIC GAS-LIGHTING AND 


the pending chain brings the spring wire at the 
end of the movable arm into connection with the 
fixed electrode on the insulated collar, closing the 
electrical circuit, the subsequent breaking of 
which produces the igniting flash or spark. 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 

Switches .—A switch near the battery is useful, 
so that in case of any trouble the occupants of the 
house can switch off the battery and save it from 
running down. 

Spark-coil .—An eight or ten-inch spark-coil is 
sufficient for lighting coal-gas. 

Connections .—Simply winding the wire is not 
sufficient to produce a perfect connection; solder¬ 
ing is necessary, and rosin, not acid, should be 
used. 

Insulation .—Particular care should be exercised 
in every part of a job, that perfect insulation be 
obtained. Any leakage will rapidly destroy the 
efficiency of the battery. Every foot of wire 
should be closely examined before being run, and 
all suspicious places wound with the rubber tape. 


BELL-FITTING FOR AMATEURS. 


43 


Running Wire in Damp Places .—Extra care 
should be taken in running wires through damp 
places. For walls and other equally bad sections, 
rubber-covered wire is good. Where tacks are 
used, the wire should be covered with rubber tape. 
Steam or hot water pipes should never be crossed, 
except that extra care be taken that the wires do 
not come in contact with them, as the heat melts 
the paraffine on the covering of the wire and 
destroys the insulation, often causing a ground. 

Hints for Running Wires out of Sight .—From 
key or press-button plate on the wall to the floor. 
Punch a hole through the plastering at the re¬ 
quired position, being careful that there is no 
studding at that place. Use a brad-awl, and cut 
the hole large enough to set in the press-button 
plate. With a few inches of small brass spring 
wire, push through the opening a few inches of 
No. 19 double jack-chain, such as is used for gen¬ 
eral fishing purposes, first having connected the 
end of the chain with a piece of heavy linen 
thread. Run out the thread until the chain 
touches the floor beneath (between the laths and 
the outside wall) ; move the thread and locate the 


44 


ELECTRIC GAS-LIGHTING AND 


chain by sound. Bore 4 hole through the base¬ 
board or floor, as the case may be, towards the 
chain. Use a two or three-foot German twist 
gimlet. With a small brass spring wire, bent at 
the end in the shape of a hook, fish for the chain 
and draw it out. At the other end of the thread 
attach the wire and draw it through with the 
thread. Passing under the floor, bore a second 
hole through the floor as near the other as possi¬ 
ble. Run into this a piece of snake or fishing 
wire (which is x 6 \ inch steel wire, with a hook at 
the end), until it comes to an obstruction. Locate 
the obstruction by sound. In running wires under 
the flooring, first carefully examine all parts and 
find the direction in which the beams and timbers 
run, and run wires parallel with these. After 
locating the end of the fishing wire, see if the 
obstruction be a timber; if so, find the center and 
bore from the middle diagonally through it in the 
direction of the fishing wire. Drop a jack-chain 
and thread through the hole ; fish for it and draw 
it through hole No. 2, attach the insulated wire 
and draw it back. Starting at hole No. 3, bore 
hole No. 4 diagonally through the timber in the 


BELL-FITTING FOB AMATEURS. 


45 


direction in which the wire is to be run, making holes 
Nos. 3 and 4 form an inverted V through the tim¬ 
ber. Run the fishing wire through hole No. 4, 
until it meets an obstruction. If at the end of 
the room, bore through the floor, drop chain, fish 
it out, attach wire, and draw it home. Putty up 
boles after having done with them ; or in case of 
hard finish, plug them up with wood. In lightly 
built houses it is often found easier to take off the 
moulding above the base-board and run the wire 
under it. In such cases care should be taken to 
break off the old nails, as any attempt to drive 
them out would cause a bad break. In closets 
and around chimneys it is usually found easy to 
work. A mouse or lead weight attached to a 
string may often be dropped from the attic to the 
cellar ceiling through the space outside the chim¬ 
ney. It is well before starting on a job to care¬ 
fully examine the whole house, and find the easiest 
places to run in. When necessary to take up 
carpets, be sure to put them down again as quickly 
as possible, in order to reduce to a minimum the 
inconvenience to residents. 


46 


ELECTRIC GAS-LIGHTING AND 


WIRING FIXTURES. 

Where it is impossible to run the wire between 
the gas pipe and the outer shell, run it above if 
the fixtures be overhead ; below if the fixtures be 
low down, and bind the wire close to the fixture 
with fine thread, being sure that the sharp corners 
will not cut through the insulation and eventually 
cause a ground. Shellac the wire to the pipe, and 
when hard, remove the thread. At the joints or 
hinges connect the nearest set points by means of 
a wire loop of sufficient size to in no way interfere 
with the action of the fixture, and wind the insu¬ 
lated wire around this loop in the form of a spiral. 
Great care should be taken that perfect insulation 
be obtained, and in all such parts the wires should 
be covered with rubber tape. In running wire be¬ 
tween the gas pipe and the outside shell, the same 
care should be exercised to guard against ground¬ 
ing. To pass the rings and other sections where 
there is not sufficient space, bore through with a 
small monkey-drill, or punch a hole with a brad¬ 
awl, or file off sufficient metal to allow an exit; if 
necessary, run the wire through and over the 
obstruction. Rubber tape must be used wherever 


BELL-FITTING FOR AMATEURS. 


47 


the wire passes near the metal of the fixture or is 
liable to touch it. 

The best time to wire a house is when the 
builders have finished boarding in and have not 
yet commenced lathing. The cost of wiring at 
that time is very much less, sometimes not more 
than one-half as much as in the finished structure. 
In houses already occupied, the inconvenience 
caused by putting in wires is slight. Little or no 
dirt need be made ; there need be no hammering 
and pulling away plastering, laths and floors. 
The most expensive finishing should in no way be 
injured by the workmen. When the job is com¬ 
plete and well done, it will be difficult to discover 
evidence of the work having been done. 

TOOLS AND MATERIALS NECESSARY FOR WIRING A 
HOUSE. 

Rubber Tape , for winding wire where tacks are 
driven for holding wire overhead—to insure per¬ 
fect insulation, and prevent breaking through be¬ 
cause of sharp edges. 

Tags , for numbering wires at the battery. 


48 


ELECTRIC GAS-LIGHTING AND 


Double-pointed Tacks for holding up wire. Use 
as few as possible. 

Brass Spring Wire. A few inches for pushing 
chain through holes. 

Steel Spring or Snake Wire , for fishing pur- 
poses. Fifty feet is sufficient. 

No. 19 Double Jack Chain. A small amount for 
dropping purposes. 

Common Brad Awls , for punching holes through 
walls, etc. 

German Twist Gimlets, two and three feet long, 
l or A inch for boring purposes. 

Rat-tail File , for filing holes through fixtures 
and other metal. 

Monkey Drill , for drilling through metals. 

Wire. No. 16 or 18 braided wire is heavy 
enough, if it is well insulated. Great care should 
be taken in examining the wire to see that it is 
thoroughly insulated, as more depends upon this 
than any other feature of the job. The larger the 
wire the less the resistance. 

The reader can form from a diagram on next 
page, and plan on page 50, a very good idea of 
how to wire a house for electric gas-lighting. 


BELL-FITTING FOB AMATEUKS. 


49 



DIAGRAM FOR WIRING A HOUSE. 

















































































































































50 GAS-LIGHTING AND BELL-FITTING FOR AMATEURS. 


PLAN FOR WIRING A HOUSE. 

1 Battery on Shelf. 

2 Spark-coil. 

3 Galvanometer. 

4 Switch-board, with Individual Switches. 

5 Gas-meter. 

6 Connection of wire from battery with gas-pipe on house side 

of meter. 

7 Gas-pipe. 

8 Automatic in room S. 

9 Press-button or key-plate for lighting No. 8. 
io-ii Press-button for key-plate Automatic No. 12. 

13 Pendant Chain of Hand-Lighter. 

15 Loop for passing wire around joint in fixture. 

16 Switch for first floor. 

17 Switch for second floor. 

18 Switch for third floor. 

19 Gimlet, showing direction of holes for running wires out of 

sight. 

20 Beams, with wires run through them. 

21 Showing manner of carrying wire around corner of room 

below, bringing it through the hole and then dropping it 
back into position. 

22 Part of Automatic, with Electro-magnet, showing the 

shut-off. 

23 The same, showing the turning on and lighting. 

24 Showing how to run wire between gas-pipe and fancy cover¬ 

ing of fixture. 

25 Four press-button plate, lighting Nos. 26 and 27. 


BUBIER’S 


POPULAR ELECTRICIAN. 


A Scientific Illustrated Monthly, 

For the A mateur and Public at Large. 

Containing descriptions of all the new inventions as fast as they are patented, 
also list of patents filed each month at the Patent Office in Washington, D. C. 
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one. Bound in a neat cloth binding. Price, 50 Cents, postpaid. 


“ Questions and Answers About Electricity. A first 
book for students. Theory of Electricity and Magnetism. 
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New and Practical Book. 


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Nearly 100 Illustrations. 


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Chap. I. What is a dynamo ?—What is a motor ? 

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Chap. HI. How to construct a dynamo. 

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Chap. VII. How to make an electric battery for run¬ 
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Bubier Publishing Company, 

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*w-AN IMPORTANT WORK-*® 


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“Experimental * Electricity,” 

BY EDWARD TREYERT. 

AUTHOR OF “EVERYBODY’S HAND-BOOK OF ELECTRICITY,” 
p AND “HOW TO MAKE ELECTRIC BATTERIES AT HOME.” 


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Chap. 1. —Some Easy Experiments in Electricity and 
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“ 5 . —How to Make an Induction Coil. 

“ 6.—How to Make a Magneto Machine. 

“ 7.—How to Make a Telegraph Instrument. 

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